Sirbaz Khan Bcomes the First Pakistani to Climb All 14 Eight-Thousanders Without Oxygen
Sirbaz Khan, a 34-year-old mountaineer from Hunza Valley, Pakistan, has made history by becoming the first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 meters without supplementary oxygen.
His final ascent of Kangchenjunga on May 18, 2025, marks the culmination of a remarkable journey that began in 2017. Khelo Pakistan is thrilled to celebrate this monumental achievement, which places Khan among the world’s elite climbers.
Sirbaz Khan’s Journey
Sirbaz Khan’s story is a true testament to resilience and dedication. He began his career as a high-altitude porter and kitchen assistant at the base of K2, the world’s second-highest and arguably most dangerous peak. Despite humble beginnings, his passion for climbing was unstoppable.
- 2019: Made headlines by summiting Lhotse without oxygen, a first for a Pakistani climbe
- 2017: Successfully summited Nanga Parbat, his first 8000m peak
- 2018: Conquered K2, Pakistan’s pride and the most challenging mountain in the Karakoram
What Are the 14 Eight-Thousanders?
The eight-thousanders are a set of 14 mountain peaks that rise above 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) and are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges across Nepal, Pakistan, China, and India. These peaks are not only the tallest but also the most treacherous in the world due to harsh weather, low oxygen, and extreme terrain.
| No. | Mountain Name | Height (m) | Height (ft) | Location |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Everest | 8,849 | 29,032 | Nepal, China |
| 2 | K2 | 8,611 | 28,251 | Pakistan, China |
| 3 | Kangchenjunga | 8,586 | 28,169 | Nepal, India |
| 4 | Lhotse | 8,516 | 27,940 | Nepal, China |
| 5 | Makalu | 8,485 | 27,838 | Nepal, China |
| 6 | Cho Oyu | 8,188 | 26,864 | Nepal, China |
| 7 | Dhaulagiri I | 8,167 | 26,795 | Nepal |
| 8 | Manaslu | 8,163 | 26,781 | Nepal |
| 9 | Nanga Parbat | 8,125 | 26,657 | Pakistan |
| 10 | Annapurna I | 8,091 | 26,545 | Nepal |
| 11 | Gasherbrum I | 8,080 | 26,510 | Pakistan, China |
| 12 | Broad Peak | 8,051 | 26,414 | Pakistan, China |
| 13 | Gasherbrum II | 8,034 | 26,358 | Pakistan, China |
| 14 | Shishapangma | 8,027 | 26,335 | China |
Inspiring a New Generation of Climbers
Sirbaz’s story is now an inspiration for aspiring athletes, students, and outdoor enthusiasts throughout Pakistan. It reminds us that dreams born in the valleys can reach the world’s highest peaks with enough hard work, focus, and courage.
As Pakistan builds its identity as a hub for eco-tourism and mountain sports, his story becomes a symbol of national pride and global achievement.
Congratulations and Inspiration
Khelo Pakistan extends heartfelt congratulations to Sirbaz for his unparalleled achievement. His success highlights Pakistan’s growing presence in global mountaineering and inspires young athletes to pursue their dreams with passion and resilience.
